Malay Culture

Yes, it still exists. It’s still possible to find a country of empty, white-sand beaches (and fivestar hotels), the world’s oldest rain forest (and brand-name international boutiques), a land packed with intriguing ancient cultures (and world-class golf courses). The only real surprise is where it’s found – Malaysia.

This often-overlooked Southeast Asian country is easily confused in European travelers’ mental maps with Thailand (directly to the north) and Singapore (directly to the south). Even its name creates mind-fuzz – Malaysia? Isn’t that a little sub-continental part of Asia?

Malaysia’s history is a mish-mash, too. Few people know about its romantic past: the area known as Malacca (today one of the smallest states, on the peninsula’s southwest coast) was founded in the 13th century by a Sumatran prince. It quickly became the most influential port city in all of southeast Asia. Arab traders brought Islam to the region, and the mixmaster of cultures began to churn, spilling out its contents in lively profusion.

In 1511 Malacca Harbor was captured by the Portuguese, further adding to the spicy blend of cultures. It didn’t stop there. By 1641 the Dutch had taken control of the lucrative spice trade. And in 1819 the British replaced the Dutch, establishing trading posts in the region and importing workers from India, adding extra piquancy to the tasty cultural stew.

Finally, in 1957, the country gained full independence, and this year the 13 states of this constitutional monarchy are marking the 50th anniversary of the country’s statehood. The slender leaves of the mengkuang plant have been boiled, dyed and woven, and the reedy welcome mats are out.

Two halves split by a sea

Look at a map of Malaysia, and you’ll see something else unique about it: the country is divided into two regions, Peninsula Malaysia to the west; and East Malaysia to the east, perched on roughly the top third of the island of Borneo, which is part of Indonesia.

Ironically, the two solidly Malaysian regions are forever held apart by an almost 400-mile-wide channel of the South China Sea. That could make dropping over to see the neighbors a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, however, the two ancient land masses are woven together by an amazing 45 modern domestic airlines; for visitors coming from farther away, the country offers a comfortable choice of landing places at six international airports in addition to the capital city’s Kuala Lumpur International Airport.

From the heart of a great city…

Roughly the size of metropolitan Prague, Kuala Lumpur (known to locals and regular visitors as “KL”) is a modern city, where overhearing Malaysian-flavored English conversations is common. The national economy, and especially this city, rely on tourism and making visitors feel safe and secure; you can’t help but notice the well-run security and transportation systems. The Express Rail can whisk you from the International Airport to the city’s center in just 28 minutes. And if you do happen to get lost? Just look for someone in a dark blue uniform with checkered cap and an armband – the KL “tourist police” are ready to help you find your way.

But what does the city look like? Just as you would imagine. Or maybe not. The centerpiece of this modern metropolis is the 88-story Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), at 1,482.94 ft, officially the tallest building in the world. If you’ve only got a day or two to spend in KL, this is worth a stop-off. The glass-and-steel structures house offices and boutiques, an art gallery, cinemas, even a science museum. KL’s famous Starhill Gallery shopping center holds 280,000 sq ft of designer label fashions, art books, luxury watches, trendy cafes and five-star restaurants. Jet-lag and shopping-overdose victims alike definitely appreciate a visit to the 50,000 sq ft “Pamper Zone” for everything from a quick manicure to a full spa treatment.

If you want to tell the folks back home that you took a walk on the wild side, hop a bus, taxi, or one of two light rail trains to Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. Get out the camera and get ready for fun: this jostly neighborhood is right out of the movies. Stroll along and let yourself be “hawked” by street vendors from under their colorful striped umbrellas and awnings. There’s no telling what kind of bargains you’ll find here, because, as in all of Malaysia, haggling is its own kind of beloved street theatre.

…To the heat of the jungle

When you’re ready to get out of the city and ogle a different kind of striking scenery, head for Taman Negara National Park, a three-hour drive northeast from the capital (domestic air flights and trains are also available). It’s a mere 130 million years old. Of course you’ll want to bring your sunblock, sunglasses – and an umbrella.

All of Malaysia is generally warm every day of the year; humidity during the rainy season (November-March) can hit a whopping 90 percent. Sudden heavy downpours can be dramatic, with booming thunder and impressive lightning. But storms in this country normally last less than two hours, so even Taman Negara is a good place for trekking. A network of jungle trails and the availability of expert guides make it do-able, even for novice kings and queens of the jungle.

For the more adventurous, rafting the rapids of Sungai Temeling are too enticing an opportunity to pass up. If you’re interested in stepping up in the world, a three-or-more day trek up Gunung Tahan mountain (7,175 ft) is the ticket to your success. Again, an experienced guide is compulsory. But even if you’ve only got a day or two, you’ll be able to see some of the more than 10,000 species of plants, 250 kinds of birds, and exotic animals – from barking deer to various types of monkeys – and maybe even an elephant, leopard, or tiger, if you’re very lucky.

Your own private island

Pangkor Laut is a 300-acre, privately-owned island three miles off the west coast of Peninsula Malaysia. It contains only two things: 200-million-year-old, undeveloped nature; and the Pangkor Laut Resort. Dedicated to combining luxury, natural beauty, and an undisturbed rain forest, the resort features traditional wooden stilt buildings perched above the pristine water, rocky outcroppings and white sand, positioned to catch the cooling breeze and offer a reach-out-and-touch-it view of dramatic sunsets.

Most of the individual villas provide private balconies for sunbathing, an oversized bathtub in a private courtyard, or an oversized bathtub with a view opening right out into the edge of the rainforest. The resort itself offers half a dozen dining options, from light lunches in the bar to a four-course private dinner cruise. Or perhaps you’d prefer the private dining options – cuisine created by your own personal chef and served by your butler in your villa, on the beach, or in a private gazebo in the spa. The internationallytrained chefs offer the best of Japanese, Chinese, Italian, western, and of course, Asian fusion cuisine.

And what about the lazy hours between the sumptuous dining? You can cruise on the resort’s teakwood oriental junk and go snorkeling, swimming, or sunbathing on an undisturbed sun-drenched beach; and two luxury yachts are available for charter. The Royal Teluk Rubiah 18-hole golf course is just a jaunt away. Or laze away the hours at the resort’s Spa Village, with authentic Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Thai health rituals. Facilities include eight treatment pavilions, three healing huts (Chinese herbal, Ayurvedic, and Malaysian therapies), bath houses, spa huts, a spa boutique, and, what we all need, locked behind our office doors, nap gazebos. All treatments are based on four concepts: rejuvenation and longevity; relaxation and stress relief; detoxification; or romance.

A bit of Malaysia for your suitcase

Maybe it’s the Equatorial light. Maybe it’s the bottomless aqua sea. Or maybe it’s the steam rising from the humid, sweating jungle. Something, somehow makes the Malaysian way of looking at things a little different from anywhere else. And lucky you, you can easily take home a little piece of the Malaysian way of seeing, with several different traditional souvenirs. You can capture it in the deeply rich colors of handmade fabrics, for example.

Batik uses carefully placed hot wax as a screen to block or admit layers of color onto cotton or silk; it can be like looking down through the shimmering blue and green water on the edge of Pangkor Laut’s pearly beach. Songket, on the other hand, features gold and silver threads woven into intricate brocade designs and patterns, like sunlight glancing off a thousand dripping leaves after a sudden downpour in Taman Negara National Park. Songket designs look like the unlikely combination of classic Middle American quilt patterns melted into historic mosque mosaic designs.

Many other Malaysian crafts are based on the native materials close at hand in this hilly, rainforested land just north of the Equator. Mengkuang beach bags, hats, fans, even slippers; rattan furniture; and keris daggers with intricately carved handles are just three examples.

But then again there are the Kelantanese wau-bulan moon kites. The kites have two sails, the bottom one shaped like a crescent moon; some carry bent-wood bows that sing in the wind as they ride the sky. Catching sight of one bobbing in the deep blue Malaysian sky is like getting a postcard from the edge of the world. Its message: “I greet you from the heart of paradise – Malaysia.”

The basic tastes of Malaysia

As in many Asian cultures, the main ingredients in Malaysian cooking are rice, spices (especially chilies), and coconut. With so much water around, seafood is common, too.

Here are just a few of the basic Malaysian dishes:

Satay. Marinated chicken, shrimp, or beef on bamboo skewers, grilled over hot charcoal, drenched in a rich, spicy/sweet marinade. Peanut sauce is for dipping the accompanying ketupat, a compressed rice roll. Usually served with sliced onions and cucumber.

Nasi lemak. The “Malayan national food.” Rice steamed with coconut milk, served with curry chicken or beef, fried anchovies and sambal (a salty paste made from ground chillies). Pandan leaves (a tall, slender garden plant) can be added to give the steamed rice a fragrant aroma.

Laksa. Thick rice noodles served in a tangy fish soup. The fish is usually mackerel, but the addition of aromatic herbs, shredded cucumber, lettuce, pineapple, onion and mint leaves make up for it.

Soto ayam. Spicy chicken soup with vermicelli. The soup is served with hard-boiled eggs, slices of fried potatoes, celery leaves, and fried shallots.

Spices. Tamarind (from the seed pods of an Asian evergreen) gives food its characteristic tart, tangy taste. Turmeric (a plant in the ginger family) leaches its noticeable yellow color and lively taste into soups and sauces.